The Box Blonde

The box blonde has been around for about as long as women have wanted to go from brunette to blonde. I recently read an article in a magazine which encouraged readers to go ahead and bleach their hair out at home because of how easy it was to achieve amazing results. I want to touch on that a little because it seems that for some reason,  something is lost in translation when it comes to truly understanding the art of lightening hair. 

An advantage of having your hair lightened in the salon, by a pro, is not only the knowledge that your stylist or colourist possesses, (17 years in my case, and Violet Blonde Salon which specializes in that sort of thing)  but also the plethora of tools and products at our disposal to help get your hair light. The box blonde is typically a formula which is not made specifically for you, or for anyone else for that matter. It is a colour or bleach which has been formulated for the masses and therefore cannot compete with an intricate colour formula calculated from years of know how, and hands on trial and error. When I mix a colour or lightener, I have at my fingertips dozens of options from which to choose and intermix to maximize lightening and toning ability. Each gram I add changes the intended purpose and outcome. 

Colour formulation is so specific, that every client has their own formula which is rarely used on other clients. Hair texture, ethnicity, hair elasticity, condition, prior colour, chemical and product build up, and lifestyle all play a very big part in deciding what route to take. These are aspects which get overlooked at home, and even if they are addressed rarely do people have the know how to navigate these kind of issues that we navigate everyday in a salon setting. I have in good conscience sent many clients home when I have felt that their hair could not handle the stresses of going lighter. 

I have heard many times that hairdressers make it "look so easy", and perhaps that is part of the problem. It is the opposite of easy, but after years and years you are able to discern very quickly what kind of hair you are dealing with, what product you need to use, if the formula needs any additives (yes we actually use "secret" ingredients), and the after colour products to help bring your hair back to an ideal state. The moral of the story is that next time you read that bleaching your hair out at home with products that are strong enough to sterilize infections is a good idea, take a step back and think about it. 

Makeover Video - Before and After

Our makeover model Erika,  is a student and photographer, and Erika was a great candidate because she is a naturally pretty girl who just needed an update. Guido Di Salle on hair and Gina Marie Oades on makeup..... Watch the short video below to see how it unfolds. 

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HAIR:

For the hair, I wanted to achieve a believable blonde. I call this particular blonde the "california" blonde because of its neutral tones which are neither too warm or too cool, and the approachable playful air associated with it. I have come to be known for my blondes and how healthy they look, and it is one of the reasons Violet Blonde Salon in Yorkville has become a major destination for discerning blonde's in Toronto. To achieve this colour I foiled 75% of the hair, and toned what was left out of the foils to harmonize the blonde and the colour that I was working with, which looked like a cover up of an ombre gone wrong. The hair is still super healthy, has great shine and emphasizes Erika's personality, which is friendly, down to earth, and full of energy.  The results speak for themselves, and Erika now has a hair colour which is better suited to her skin tone and her lifestyle. 

MAKEUP:

For Erika's makeup look I sought help from one of Toronto's top makeup talents, Gina Marie Oades. I work well with Gina because she shares the same passion that I do, and on top of that she is a true professional, knowledgeable and brings great positivity to all things she does. You can find out more about Gina at: 

www.ginamariemua.com

www.facebook.com/ginamariemua

Instagram: ginamariemua

Erika's make up inspiration in Gina's own words:

SKIN:

Erika already had great skin, so I used a small amount of foundation mixed with a bit of luminizing gel to create a youthful glow. To apply, I used a damp Beauty Blender which applies foundation evenly and almost gives an "airbrushed" effect. To add natural and healthy colour to her face, I used a cream blush from MAKE UP FOR EVER's new HD Blush collection and finished with a matte bronzer.

EYES:

A combination of neutral colours from Stila's  In the Know Eyeshadow palette were used to give Erika a classic look paired with lots of mascara.

LIPS:

Erika said she loves rocking a red lip, however, finds that lipsticks tend to fade quickly. I used a long wearing waterproof lip liner from MAKE UP FOR EVER'S Aqua collection (Aqua Lip 8C) before adding red lip stick and gloss.

The "Wob" Hair Trend

Move over bob, because here comes the "wob". Apparently the name stands for wet bob, and is true to its namesake in the sense that its exactly that, a wet looking bob. Its not the first time this trend has popped up either as versions of it became popular in the 80's, and the 90's. In fact, I remember the first photo shoot I ever did, and one of the looks was exactly the wob! 

The most recent resurrection has been made popular by celebrities such as Beyoncé at the Grammys  and more recently Malin Akerman (who's hair I have had the opportunity to do, and she's lovely! Another perk of being one of the best hairdressers in Toronto). Both pulled the look off spectacularly and really did the wob some justice. There are different versions of the wob, and the main recurring theme is that a product is used to make the hair look wet. One version concentrates product on the roots, another throughout the whole hairstyle, and there a few varieties in between. This isn't a look which abides by many rules, so experimentation is necessary, but keep in mind that serums, light hold styling products, and mousses might give you your best chance at re-creating the wob (I like saying wob). 

Do I think the look is for everybody? Absolutely not, and in fact I think if you are attempting to pull off this style, a little home experimentation is necessary. You know the routine, pick an evening where you don't have anywhere to go, grab some styling product  and lock yourself in your bathroom so your significant other doesn't see your new hobby! I think the real key at pulling this look off is your outfit. If you work in an office, or professional setting, and you rock the wob, you might raise some eyebrows, at least here in Toronto anyway. You will probably just look like you got caught in the rain.  On the other hand, if you are going out for an evening of dancing, dinner or drinks, or attending one of the many socialite functions around Toronto or other big cities, then the wob will work. It may very well be that the wob is not here to stay, but in the meantime I enjoy looking at updated versions of the lesser known cousin of the bob.

Razor or Scissors, A Toronto Hairstylist Explains

Okay, razor or scissors, which is superior? Well the answer is they both are, and the deciding factor is your hair type and what you are trying to achieve. I am lucky enough to have both skills and use them accordingly. I mastered a razor before I mastered scissors, and therefore possess enough knowledge to help you decide which may be best for you.

Your first consideration should be your hair type. Is it fine? Straight? Thick? Curly? These are the first four points to consider. Generally most stylist's shy away from cutting fine hair with razors as the sentiment seems to be that it can wreak havoc on fine hair. Not so fast though, as all stylists are not created equal. The razor can be an excellent tool for fine hair if used gently on the ends only, without removing too much weight above the cutting line, or perimeter. If your stylist is gentle and insightful and follows these rules, you may end up with a cut which has a little more softness and texture on the ends, and that may help your cause. Stay away from pixie type cuts exclusively done with the razor if your hair is fine, trust me, you will thank me for it. 

Straight hair will also benefit from using the razor, and in these cases a combination of scissor work and razor will yield the best results. If your hair is super thick and straight, the whole haircut can be done with the razor and the scissors can be used to clean up the overall shape. The advantage to having a razor haircut when your hair is straight is that the razor will introduce movement and texture and give your hair a little more "oomph" if used correctly. So if movement and softness is what you yearn for and your hair is straight, then ask for the razor. If you like the long blunt look which looks well kept, then the scissors will be your friend. 

Thick hair can really benefit from having a good old fashioned razor put to it, but with caution, as thick hair tends to be on the naturally dry and frizzy side, and the razor will exaggerate that problem for you if you are not careful. I like to give my thick hair clients a precision haircut with scissors, and then slowly remove weight through out with the razor thus creating a beautiful overall shape which still has the benefit of having the weight taken out. Thick hair is a great candidate for both scissors and razor because there is so much hair to work with that both have their advantages. 

For a very long time, curly hair was a no-no for razor techniques, as 1980 inspired hairstylists went to town on women's manes creating hairstyles that were more akin to hair bands then they were to beautiful wearable hair. We have evolved since then, and for women with crazy thick curly hair the razor can be used to alleviate volume and thickness especially underneath the top layers of the hair. This is a technique which needs practice, and it shouldn't be done by a novice, but when executed by a pro, it is a liberating feel for women who have the god given problem of too much hair. Because the razor can cause frizz, I don't recommend it to cut the length of curly hair, as the scissors are far superior here. I also don't recommend using it on fine curly hair, as in this case a stylist with scissors and some good channelling talent can give you an easier cut to work with.

One thing to keep in mind is that no matter how good your stylist is, razor cuts should not be done every single time. The very nature of this method intends for stylists to cut the hair with scissors every 2 or 3 times, so in a real life scenario you should never have more then 2-3 razor cuts back to back. This is based on a schedule of having your hair cut every 6-10 weeks, as I am hoping most of you do. So the debate isn't as cut and dry (no pun intended) as you might think but hopefully this knowledge will help you decide which method suits you best.

Gwyneth Paltrow : Blonde Bombshell

Gwyneth Paltrow is a perfect example of an iconic blonde that has never really strayed too far from her comfort level. As I am writing this I have come to learn that Gwyneth and husband Chris Martin (of Coldplay fame) are separating. I am not sure if her separation will make her yearn for a change in her hair colour but I hope it doesn't, as a quick Google image search will show you that she has had almost the exact same shade of blonde forever! 

The secret to Gwyneth's beautiful locks partly has to be credited to her stylist and partly to the fact that she goes with what I call the California blonde. The California blonde is the hue of blonde that is neither too light or too harsh. It has hints of lighter pieces and hints of warmer pieces all blended together which create a blonde that is easy on the eye. The fact that she only alters her shade in subtle ways gives her the ability to keep her hair blonde and healthy. It has always been a debate to change your colour or not to change your colour, but there is nothing wrong with having a "signature" look that works and people identify you with. 

Ultimately there are different ways to achieve this type of look and will vary depending on how light or dark your base is. The key things to get a similar shade of blonde are to make sure your stylist is not overlapping your colour too much as this will lead to breakage and blotchy colour. Also keep in mind that the toning process is probably the most important thing to look for if going for this shade as toners not only act as colour perfection tools, they also work to add a layer of gloss to the hair that would be non existent without. I can't believe how many new clients have told me that the salon they used to go to never toned their hair! I tone my blondes 100% of the time, no compromise. Last but not least taking care of this colour with at home care products will ensure longevity. Colour care is a must and certain products such as shampoos specifically for blonde really help keep your colour looking vibrant for longer. A lightweight hair masque will also help replenish some of the moisture that has been taken out in the lightening process. 

There is something to be said about women who find the perfect colour and wear it confidently without feeling the pressure to reinvent themselves through experimenting with different shades. A close look at Gwyneth is proof that wearing a colour that works for you not only has its benefits such as keeping your hair healthy for long periods of time, but that if it isn't broken then perhaps it doesn't need fixing. 

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5 Things you maybe shouldn't tell your Hairdresser

Without further anticipation, a short list of things that are maybe better left unsaid:

1. "I want a change but don't want to lose too much length, or change the colour"

I have been told this exact sentence too many times to count, and I forgive those of you that have said those words to me. Why you shouldn't say it: This is essentially like telling your hairdresser that they have to cut and style your hair blindfolded, with one arm tied behind their back. Compromise is needed, and if you are really looking for a change, then learn to let go of at least one of those criteria. 

2. "I have very fine hair but I want ton's of volume"

This is another one of those sayings that makes a stylist feel like they have had a Rubik's Cube tossed in their lap with only 30 seconds to solve the puzzle. Why you shouldn't say it: This is an oxymoron with no easy solution. We strive to give our client's what they want, but being reasonable doesn't just make our lives easier, it makes yours easier as well. If you have fine hair, try sticking to styles that augment your best features and co-operate with your particular texture. Trying to get your hair to do something that it really doesn't want to do is a losing battle. Instead, go for a style that is either shorter to help alleviate weight and help give natural volume, or sleeker with either a fringe or some intelligently placed layers to work with what you got. 

3. "If I have to colour my hair at home, which colour should I use"

This question isn't asked as often as the others but I have included it because it is important for clients to understand that the majority of us are not witholding valuable information. Why you shouldn't say it: In 17 years of doing hair and practising it at the highest standard, I have yet to use a box of colour from the local drug store, or in fact even pick one up to look at it. I would be the last person on earth to be able to give you meaningful information on which store bought colour you should use. In the salon all colours are mixed for each client individually, which is why salon colour generally looks better then box colour. It is this ability to mix countless shades together which gives us ultimate control over the finished product. I would be guessing if I told you what to use out of the box!

4. "Do whatever you want, I trust you"

Okay, so this might be music to a hairdresser's ears, but lets think about this logically for one moment. Most of you trust your hairdresser, in some cases such as my own, there are bonds which are established over years that foster trust and honesty. Why you shouldn't say it: As good as your hairdresser is at reading between the lines and knowing the difference between what you say and what you mean, we enjoy the exchange of ideas that takes place in a consultation. Whatever I "want" can mean lots of things, like making you blonde, in which case you have to come in and have your hair retouched every 5-8 weeks which is time consuming and a small financial commitment. Give some parameters and thoughts on what you mean so you don't end up with a cut or colour which you may regret in the not so distant future. 

5. "I want a perm"

A rarity, but still. Why you shouldn't say it: Perms will not make your life easier! I have only seen perms which have made people miserable, have destroyed hair, and are usually next to impossible to repair, or style in any way that resembles a modern hair style. Embrace your texture, and once again get a cut and style that suits your particular type of hair. To understand how damaging perms can be one must understand that they are reforming your hair bonds on the molecular level and no amount of products will help restore your hair's elasticity. 

Sex Appeal Revisited with Michelle Williams

Here is an example of a totally feminine, touchable short hair style that still has plenty of sex appeal. I wanted to showcase Michelle Williams' style here because some women that sit in my chair are often apprehensive of trying shorter styles in the fear of losing their femininity. I am not an avid supporter of associating length with beauty and allure, as I would much rather see someone who is not afraid to step out from behind their hair and show another side of sex appeal that has somehow been lost in translation: Personality. It is this trait that brings these looks to life, and can ultimately turn a short hair style into a jaw dropping success. It is for this reason that I assess my clients ability to pull off shorter hair styles not only taking into account facial features such as cheek bones, lips, eyes, and nose, but also taking a step back and looking holistically at the person in question and sensing if they have the confident personality needed to wear these looks effortlessly. Your personality will define the cut, the cut will not define your personality. If you are thinking of getting a similar haircut make sure to ask your stylist for plenty of texture, some disconnection throughout the interior of your hair cut, and a little asymmetry. Typically these cuts work best with fine to medium density hair with some slight wave being ideal. A little bit of courage, and a lot of personality will make this cut as signature looking on you as it does on Michelle Williams.

When A Cut Is More Than A Trend

Seldom do styles come back so fervently that they are almost indistinguishable. Above are photos taken of Sophia Loren circa the 1960's and Iman. Both are strikingly beautiful, and both sport the kind of cut that most women would love to have. This particular style is not about sleek and chic, instead it is about volume, movement and texture. I often get asked "what are the current trends?". This is a question which I answer honestly each and every time because the answer is that the "trend" is to do what works best for you, what you feel comfortable in and ultimately something you can work with at home. It has to make you feel beautiful.  The sheer amount of years between when these 2 photos were taken should be a testament to that philosophy. Ideas change, which probably influences our sense of fashion and beauty, but take one look at these images captured in time and you begin to realize that trends and fashion are more related to the way we perceive ourselves and the world in which we live, then they are to notions associated with different time periods. This timeless approach to beauty has guided me well through out my career and I believe should be the standard applied to the daunting question of what is the trend. 

Twiggy, The Model That Made Time Stand Still

Lesley Lawson, or "Twiggy" as she has been known for over 40 years, is widely credited with starting the era of the modern fashion supermodel. I recently read something about Twiggy and it reminded me of how timeless she really is, so I decided to write a short blog about her. For me, and I'm sure many others in fashion/beauty would agree, Twiggy is the ultimate face in which to create stunning looks with. Hence her rise to stardom and ability to adapt to different looks as witnessed by the sheer number of photos floating around the internet. Her particular shade of blonde, cute boyish haircut (which still looked feminine), pouty lips and incredible eyes gave Twiggy that undeniable X factor in which only the upper echelon of models (Christie Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Gisele Bundchen, Doutzen Kroes) have today. I urge anyone  with an interest in photography, art or fashion/beauty to delve into the world that is Twiggy. Some of the photos from the 60's ooze so much personality and raw genius, that you really begin to realize how difficult it is today, even in our digital age, to re-create these looks. Perhaps our reliance on digital imagery has taken a little bit of that old hasselblad feeling from us, when the negatives were the size of magazine covers. Or maybe its just because Twiggy literally made time stand still with her beauty and personality that somehow came through in every single picture ever taken of her,.